When the converter starts quitting
The signs usually build gradually. The batteries stay discharged after a night on shore power, the 12V lights flicker or dim, or the battery bank never seems to fully charge no matter how long it's plugged in. Most people blame the batteries first and buy new ones before anyone looks at the converter.
The converter sits in the electrical compartment and steps incoming AC down to DC. Heat is the usual enemy of those parts. Harlingen only gets occasional light winter freezes, so we're rarely chasing cold damage. We start with what the converter is actually putting out.
How we find the actual problem
We use a multimeter or AC voltmeter to check the DC output at the converter's terminals, then check the AC side to confirm the unit is receiving incoming power. A low, erratic, or missing DC reading on a converter that is getting AC points at the converter. Sometimes the fault turns out to be a loose connection, which saves you the cost of a new unit.
If the converter is bad, we look at the wiring and the mounting location before the new one goes in. Corroded wires or a damaged bracket get fixed first, so the new converter has a solid mount and clean connections.

What we use and how it goes in
For most replacements we install a WFCO WF-8955. The work is simple to describe: secure the replacement converter in its mounting location, then reconnect the AC and DC wires to their corresponding terminals, following the existing wiring layout so nothing gets crossed. Swapping AC and DC leads causes damage, so we don't rush that step.
When it's wired up, we test the output with the multimeter and confirm the batteries are accepting a charge. We also make sure nothing blocks airflow around the unit, since a converter that can't shed heat won't last.
What you will pay
The WFCO WF-8955 converter runs $285 to $385 on its own, without installation. Call us and we can give you a typical range over the phone. The exact number is confirmed once we've seen the RV, because labor depends on how reachable the old unit is, whether the wiring needs repair, and whether the mounting area needs work. A tight compartment takes longer. Cleaning up corroded connections or repairing damaged wiring adds to the job.
We tell you what we find and what it will cost before we do anything beyond the diagnostic.
What we need from you
Keep the electrical compartment clear enough for us to reach, and be there to tell us what you've noticed, such as when the batteries stopped holding a charge or which lights flicker. We handle the rest, from diagnosis through installation and testing.
Getting Started Is Simple
The specifics usually look like this:
- Unplug shore power, shut off the onboard generator, and disconnect the battery negative terminal before removing the old converter.
- Remove the old converter’s AC hot, neutral, and ground wires, then disconnect its DC positive and negative output wires.
What It Typically Costs
The figures here give you a sense of scale, and we'll tell you which end of the range yours is likely to sit at.
$385–$485
$500–$520
More Ways We Can Help
Straightforward Pricing
(956) 506-1781Tell us what's going on and get a straight answer, no strings.
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